Or: why life is basically an international holiday, and everyone eventually stops walking with you at a different gate.
There is a Kannadasan song that has been quietly following me around for about fifty years, like a well-behaved dog that occasionally sits on your foot to remind you it exists. You know the one — Veedu Varai Uravu, from Paadha Kaanikkai, TMS in that impossibly grave voice, Viswanathan–Ramamoorthy leaving space around every syllable the way a good chef leaves space around a piece of fish on the plate.
Four lines. That’s all. Kannadasan didn’t need eight.
Veedu varai uravu
Veedhi varai manaivi
Kaadu varai pillai
Kadaisi varai yaaro?
Relatives come as far as the house. The wife comes as far as the street. The children come as far as the cemetery. And then — that beautiful, slightly terrifying question mark — who comes with you all the way to the end?
Kannadasan, being Kannadasan, refuses to answer. He just leaves you sitting there with your coffee going cold.
I have been thinking about this song again, but from a very unpoetic angle, because I am a modern man and I fly Economy.
Life is a return trip you didn’t quite plan
Here is the thought that will not leave me alone.
Life, from the moment we arrive to the moment we leave, is structured exactly like an international holiday. Not the yoga-retreat kind. The messy kind. The kind where somebody forgets the adapter and somebody else insists on packing three kilos of murukku (a crunchy South Indian snack twisted out of rice and urad dal flour and deep-fried into little edible spirals — the kind of thing aunties smuggle across international borders in Tupperware) “just in case.”
Consider the arrival.
You land. The plane doors open. You are wheeled or carried out — because let us be honest, nobody walks off their first flight — and there, waiting at the gate, is your entire welcoming committee. In this case, the “airport” is a hospital, the “arrivals lounge” is a delivery room, and the welcoming committee wears surgical masks and holds you upside down until you announce yourself with a scream.
The doctor is the immigration officer. (“Papers, please. Weight, length, APGAR score.”)
The nurse is the ground staff. (“Sir, madam, this way to baggage claim, which is you.”)
The parents are the family who drove three hours to pick you up and are now weeping in the parking lot for reasons neither of you fully understand yet.
They take you home. They make sure you are comfortable. Someone puts a blanket on you that is objectively too warm. Someone else insists you eat something. This is the veedu varai uravu phase, and it lasts, if you are lucky, about eighty years.
The middle of the holiday, or: why we fight over the AC remote
Now — anyone who has ever been on a family holiday knows that the middle of the trip is where things go interesting.
Day one, everyone is delightful. “Shall we all have dosa?” (a thin, crisp fermented rice-and-lentil crepe; the South Indian answer to the pancake, only with more opinions attached to it.) “Yes, dosa is a wonderful idea.” “You take the window seat, no no you take it.”
Day four, someone is not speaking to someone else because of a comment made at breakfast about the correct way to eat curd rice (thayir sadam — cooked rice mixed with yogurt, tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves; simultaneously the most comforting food on earth and the most fiercely litigated recipe in every South Indian household). Day six, there is a full diplomatic incident about who booked which taxi. By day nine, two people are communicating exclusively through a third person, who is themselves not on speaking terms with a fourth.
This is life. This is the entire arc between the veedu and the kaadu. Ego, opinions, small betrayals, big betrayals, the terrible things we say because we are tired and it is 41 degrees and the kulfi (the Indian ice cream cousin — denser, chewier, usually flavoured with cardamom, pistachio, or mango, and constitutionally incapable of surviving an Indian afternoon) has melted. And underneath it all, the strange and slightly embarrassing fact that we love these people so much we cannot quite bear it, which is precisely why we are fighting with them.
You never fight this hard with strangers. Have you noticed? Nobody has ever had a shouting match with the person selling coconuts on the beach. We reserve our finest performances for the people we plan to weep for.
The departure gate
And then the holiday ends.
You know this part. Somebody has to catch the flight back. The luggage is heavier than it was on the way in — it always is; this is one of the immutable laws of the universe, along with entropy and the fact that any samosa (a fried triangular pastry stuffed with spiced potatoes and peas — the samosa is to India what the sandwich is to England, except with better structural engineering) you drop will land chutney-side down.
Some people come to see you off at the door of the house — veedu varai. They stand in the driveway. They wave. They are already thinking about lunch.
A smaller, more loyal contingent comes to the street — veedhi varai (veedhi = street, in Tamil). They help you load the bags. They make jokes to cover the fact that they are sad. They insist you text when you land.
An even smaller, even more loyal contingent comes all the way to the airport — kaadu varai, in Kannadasan’s more austere vocabulary (kaadu literally means forest or wilderness, and in this context, the cremation ground — the last stop before there is no more road). They stand at the departure gate, that peculiar liminal space where you are neither here nor there, neither with them nor without them, and they hug you one more time than is strictly necessary. And you turn around and walk toward the security line, and they wave, and you wave back, and then — this is the part nobody warns you about — you have to stop waving and just walk.
And then it’s just you, your carry-on, and the long line to the metal detector.
The flight itself
Now, friend, here is where the song and the airline seat conspire against you.
You are in seat 34K. The person next to you is already asleep with their mouth open. The screen in front of you offers you three action movies, one romantic comedy, and a documentary about penguins that you know from experience will make you cry. You choose none of them.
Because at some point over the Atlantic — usually around hour four, when the lights have dimmed and the cabin has taken on that submarine hush — the ruminating begins.
Why did I say that to her at breakfast on day four?
What was the actual point of that argument about the taxi?
He was only trying to help. I made it about my ego. Why?
She said something kind and I heard it as criticism. Why?
I had eighty years. I spent forty minutes of it not speaking to my own brother because of a chair.
You cannot fight with anyone at 37,000 feet. There is nobody to fight with. There is only you, a small plastic cup of water, and a slowly dawning suspicion that most of what you took so seriously down there was — how does one put this politely — not that serious.
The plane is an accidental confessional. The tray table is an altar. The seatbelt sign is a mild but persistent guru: please remain seated. Please, please, remain seated.
The French have a phrase — l’esprit de l’escalier — the wit of the staircase. The perfect reply you think of only after you’ve left the party. The Tamil equivalent is even better and does not have a name: the wisdom of the return flight. The clarity you find only after the door has closed and the cabin has been pressurised and it is far, far too late to go back and un-say the thing.
Kadaisi varai yaaro?
And then Kannadasan’s question, which has been waiting patiently in the overhead bin the whole time, gently opens.
Who comes with you all the way to the end?
The relatives came as far as the house. The wife came as far as the street. The children came as far as the cemetery — or, if you prefer the modern edit, as far as the drop-off lane at Terminal 4, where they were shooed away by a very serious man in a fluorescent vest.
But someone is on the plane with you. That is the strange bit. That is the bit Kannadasan leaves as a question mark because he is too much of a poet to ruin it with an answer.
Pattinathar, who was less of a diplomat, said it outright a thousand years ago: what travels with you is what you did. The paavam and the punniyam (paavam = sin, the debits; punniyam = merit, the credits; between them, the only luggage the universe actually lets you check in). The way you treated the person at the coconut stall. Whether you let go of the taxi argument. Whether you called your brother back after the chair incident. Whether you were, on balance, kind — not to the people you were trying to impress, but to the people you had already stopped bothering to impress, which is the only real test.
The rishis would put it more mysteriously and say the witness in seat 34K is the same witness who was there in the delivery room, watching the whole holiday from the beginning, unbothered by the AC remote, uninvolved in the curd rice debate, present through every fight and every reconciliation, and — here is the punchline — not actually going anywhere at all.
The plane lands somewhere. The witness stays.
So what does one do on day four?
I don’t know. I really don’t. I am, as I have confessed elsewhere on this blog, an amateur at all of this. But here is what the return flight has been quietly whispering to me lately, and I offer it in the spirit of one economy-class passenger to another:
The next time somebody at breakfast says the thing about the curd rice — pause for exactly one breath before you answer. That is all. One breath. The length of a soham, if you like (soham — the natural sound of the breath itself: sa on the inhale, ham on the exhale; the mantra you’ve apparently been chanting since the delivery room without ever signing up for it). In that gap, you can sometimes hear the hum of the return flight already. You can sometimes see, faintly, how this scene will look at hour four over the Atlantic. And nine times out of ten, you will choose the reply of the person you’ll be at 37,000 feet — not the person you are at the breakfast table.
That is not enlightenment. That is just packing lighter.
Because veedu varai uravu is true. The relatives really do stop at the house. The wife really does stop at the street. The children really do stop at the cemetery. And that is fine. That is how holidays end. That is how they were always going to end. There was never a version of the trip where everyone got on the plane with you.
But the samosas you shared, the arguments you dropped, the person you were kind to when nobody was watching — those, apparently, come along as carry-on.
And they don’t count against your baggage allowance.
Kadaisi varai yaaro? Perhaps you already know. Perhaps you’ve always known. Drop it in the comments, or better yet, drop it in the driveway before the taxi arrives.
Shree Matre Namaha. (Salutations to the Divine Mother — the closing bow, in case She is the one in seat 34J.)
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